Peameal Bacon Sandwich with Oktoberfest Mustard

The peameal bacon sandwich is Toronto's contribution to the world of breakfast sandwiches, and the world should send a thank-you note. Peameal is wet-cured pork loin rolled in cornmeal, leaner than streaky bacon, juicier than ham, and it picks up a beautiful golden crust when you pan-fry it. The Oktoberfest is the move because the mustard cuts through the cornmeal crust and brings the whole sandwich into balance, sweet, tangy, malty. This is breakfast, lunch, and "I came home from the bar at 1 AM" food. The only rule is to slice the peameal thick enough that you get a real bite of meat, not a deli-style sliver.

What you need

Food:

8 slices peameal bacon, cut 1/4 inch thick (about 1 lb total). 1/4 inch is the deli-counter standard. 1/2 inch is what you get at St. Lawrence Market's Carousel Bakery and is worth it if your butcher will cut it that thick. Add 1 minute per side at 1/2 inch.

1 tbsp neutral oil

4 soft Kaiser rolls or crusty round buns (don't use brioche or anything sweet, it fights the mustard)

4 tbsp TGCS Co Oktoberfest Mustard

4 thin slices aged white cheddar (optional, some Toronto purists say no cheese on a peameal sandwich)

1 cup arugula or shredded butter lettuce

1 ripe tomato, sliced thin (optional, summer only. Winter mealy tomatoes ruin this sandwich, skip Nov through May.)

Pinch black pepper

Equipment:

Heavy cast iron skillet or non-stick pan

Tongs

Bread knife for slicing rolls

Butter knife for the mustard

Instant-read thermometer if you have one

How to cook it

1. Take the peameal out of the fridge 15 minutes before cooking. Cold meat browns unevenly.
2. Heat the cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and swirl. You're looking for a steady shimmer, not smoking. Peameal's cornmeal crust will burn faster than streaky bacon, so we run a touch cooler.
3. Lay the peameal slices in the pan, spaced out so they don't touch. Cook 3 to 4 minutes on the first side without moving them. You want a deep golden crust on the cornmeal, peek at one to check.
4. Flip with tongs. Cook 3 more minutes on the second side. The pork should be cooked through but still juicy. Peameal is wet-cured, so it has a built-in moisture buffer, but past 5 minutes per side it goes dry. If you have a thermometer, internal temp 145 F is USDA safe and juicy. Past 155 F it dries fast.
5. While the peameal finishes, slice the rolls. Toast the cut sides face-down in a second skillet or under the broiler for 30 seconds. You want warm and a little crisp, not dried out.
6. Spread 1 tbsp of Oktoberfest Mustard on the top half of each bun. Spread a thinner layer (about 1/2 tsp) on the bottom half too. Bottom-bun mustard tucks into the bread and the top-bun mustard hits your tongue first. Trust me on this.
7. If using cheddar, lay one slice on the bottom bun while it's still warm so the cheese softens.
8. Build the sandwich: bottom bun with mustard and cheddar, 2 slices of peameal stacked, a sprinkle of black pepper, tomato slice if using, arugula or lettuce, top bun.
9. Press down gently. Cut on the diagonal if you want, eat as-is if you don't.
10. ENJOY!